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Articles/Questions & Answers |
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Learn
About Turns and Winds TURNS refers to the number of times the wire was
wound around each armature arm. The fewer the turns, the
higher the rpm (revolutions per minute), or top end speed
(the highest speed attainable by that motor).
So, if you wish the fastest motor, choose a motor
with the fewest number of turns. Keep in mind that the
fewer the turns, the greater the battery draw, which means
lesser run time.
WINDS of
"Double," "Triple," or Quad" refers to the number of
strands of wire wound around the armature, double being
two strands, triple being three, quad being four, and
quint being five. The type of wind is for fine tuning your
motor's power band. In general, winds with fewer wires
give the impression of kick-starting your wheels, while
the winds with more wires will bring you up to top end
speed more slowly.
If you have a very slick track, then winds like
single and double may cause your wheels to spin; other
winds--triple, quad, quint--may give your car better
traction. In addition, the less turns of wire, the less
run time you will have, because fewer wires will draw more
power from your batteries.
Note: The performance gains by changing the type of
wind is subjective and may be noticed only by experienced
racers with vehicles that respond well.
--------- Reedy Catalog
14
Radio Glitch Fixes1) Receiver Location. The location of your receiver is
very important. Try to mount it so it is the highest
control in the car. With today's receivers, weight is of
little matter. I would rather have a high ounce over cg
than a glitch at the wrong moment.
2) Refer to #1
3) Locate the receiver as close to the antenna mast as
possible. If necessary relocate the mast. The antenna kit
from Associated works very well and they give you an extra
long mast as well.
4) Don't let the antenna wire touch the chassis. With all
the graphite parts used today, this is most important.
Graphite is a good conductor. It will pickup pulses from
the motor/ESC/battery and interfere with the radio signal.
5) Did you refer to #2?
6) Drill a hole in the side of the antenna mast to keep
the wire off the chassis. See above.
7) Don't drape wires from the motor/ESC/batteries over the
receiver or antenna wire.
8) Try two layers of servo tape to further insulate the
receiver from the chassis. See #4 then #2.
9) Inspect the receiver antenna wire for breaks.
10) Be sure that the antenna is the correct length.
11) Always use fresh batteries in the transmitter.
12) Check to be sure the transmitter antenna is tightly
screwed into the transmitters body.
13) Try wrapping the receiver in aluminum foil, it helps
keep out unwanted radio noise preventing a gut wrenching
disaster.
14) Refer to #14
Duratrax
Shock FixQuestion -
I recently bought the Duratrax 3 inch competition
shocks for my Wild Dagger. The original screws for the
shocks included in the kit do not fit with the Duratrax
shocks. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Regards,
Neil
Answer -
I ran across the same problem when I first tried to
install the duratrax shocks. You can insert some small
plastic tubing on the inside of the shock holes so that
the original screws will fit snug. Another temporary
suggestion would be to wrap the screws in some heavy duty
tape. Or you could go to a local hardware store and try to
find screws of the right size.
Thanks,
Alec - R/C Dagger Web
Tips on building your new kit!
Study and
carefully read over the instructions before beginning.
- Quickly reading over the manual will help you get
familiar with the building process. Doing this will
prevent potential problems. Look for steps in the manual
that may be easy to goof up and don’t be afraid to mark it
up with helpful notes.
Look out for ---
Different Screw Lengths
- Carefully follow instructions for correct screw sizes to
use and the location of the screws on the kit. Organize
the screws if possible and number accordingly.
Similar Parts
- Pay attention to the left, right, front, and rear
location of the parts. This is a big one with shock
towers, suspension parts, steering assemblies, and hub
carriers. Look out for the "L" and "R" indicating "left"
and "right" stamped on some parts, double check the manual
for their proper location.
Measuring Tools
- Any centimeter ruler will do, but if you'd like to get
real precise get a digital caliper. It will allow for
building accurate lengths with camber links and shocks
based on you manuals specs.
Building Area
- Having a clutter free building area will reduce loosing
parts. It'll also reduce how senile you could become!
An old rag or shop towel prevents parts from bouncing and
rolling around; it also will protect the kitchen table or
bench, and absorb spills like shock oil for instance.
- Make your own parts tray out of an egg carton. It's
perfect for small parts; dump each parts bag into their
own container on the carton and label for easy
organization.
Other organizers to use are container lids, muffin tins,
fishing tackle boxes, and other similar containers.
- Workspace lighting, a good old-fashioned desk lamp or a
portable lamp will do. Having bad light is a pain
especially with a mag light in you mouth to see well while
your cranking away at the kit.
Tools
- Correct tools is another biggie while working. Investing
in a high quality set from sears, duratrax, or a
"trustworthy" toolmaker is important. The cheapo tools
tend to break, strip, and rust.
Screwdrivers with hardened heads are the best. Number 1
and 2 Phillips-head drivers, a 1/4 inch flathead, and a
set of jewelers screwdrivers are the best.
- Hex drivers with a simple set of detachable heads are
helpful. The best set of these was a computer repair kit
found at Wal-mart.
- Pliers are tools that you'll find the most use for.
Needle-nose, slip joint, and channel locking pliers are
just a few.
- Cutters, a good pair of flush cutters can be used to
take off the excess mold plastic on your parts and snip
wires.
- A hobby knife or X-Acto knife set. These are savers when
it comes to tube or parts cutting.
- Body Scissors, you'll find when cutting a R/C body shell
with regular scissors that you can never get the wheel
wells in perfect half circles. Lexan body scissors are
curved to easily cut the excess plastic around the wheel
wells and edges of the shell.
How Much Does the Wild Dagger Kit
Cost?
I bought the kit from
Tower Hobbies
Altogether the kit does not cost alot for a biginner,
but for the serious R/C'er there are many more hopups you
can add -
Modified Motors
Electronic Speed Controls
Ball Bearings
Oil Filled Shocks
High Power Servos
Cool Looking Body Shells
Locking the Rear
Differential
If you dont know what a differential is, look in the
instructions you'll find step 1, assemble the
"Differential Gear".
Locking the differential prevents the common loss of power
to the wheels that slip
A differential works by allowing the two opposing wheels
to spin independant of each other. If you pick up your R/C
and spin the wheels you'll find its seems like the wheels
aren't connected to each other, they spin in opposite
directions. When you turn your R/C on and both tires have
traction, the car will move. But when you lift one tire
off the ground, all the power will go to the non-traction
wheel, therefore the tire with traction wont get any
power. This prevents the car from moving.
To lock the differential, you will need to prevent three
"small bevel gears" (manual part - MA11) from spinning on
the "Large bevel gear" (manual part - MA10) by stuffing
rubber bands into the rear differential or using hot glue
with rubber bands. Do not lock the front differential
because there will be a significant loss in steering
control.
Gluing the Tires
The Instructions tell you not to do this, but I found
the Dagger works better after putting four drops of thin
cyanoacrylate (super) glue inside each wheel, bonding the
rubber to the wheel. The main reason for this is because
the super glue stops the tires from slipping on the
wheels.
Maintenance and Care
- Try to keep you truck clean, it not only makes it look good, but improves the life of the R/C. Use a compressed air sprayer to force dirt out of the motors, reciver, ESC, and Ect...
- Check for loose screws and cracked parts periodically. Tires may loosen on rims and slip after a few runs, apply superglue or double sided sticky tape on rims were the tire meets. Check and tighten locknuts on the wheels often, on my R/C they loosen almost every run, and this is when the Tamiya T-bar comes in handy. Also Check the motor gear and tighten on the motor shaft with the allen wrench, included in the kit, about every ten runs.
- Lubercate parts as needed
Hop-ups and Modifications
Picture Above shows the onboard electronics including: FMA Directs Vocano ESC,
Tower Hobbies System 3000 reciver, 2 Stock Mabuchi Motors, and FMA Direct S350M Dual Ball Bearing Metal Gear steering servo.
Other add-ons and modifications include: Proline foam inserts in all four wheels, Dynamite teflon RedSeal ball bearings, Duratrax competition shocks (all short and front type shocks), OFNA Racing 5.5mm blue aluminum hex drives to replace the plastic ones, and GS Racing 4mm burgandy color aluminum flange lock nuts.
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Trinity Speed Gem 2 Onix 14turn Double
Trinity Speed Gem 2 Onix 14 turn double modified motor. Features 5.4V wet magnets, 1.3mm motor can, ball bearings, full copper standard brushes, and optional 102k capacitors for best performance. Adjustable timing for more or less punch and optimal performance.
Learn about Turns and Winds in the Q&A Section!
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FMA Direct Volcano Reversable Sport ESC
Outstanding performance and lightweight compact size makes the SC300 Volcano the best economical ESC in the market.
Featuring: One touch E-Z setup, Reverse, STD or ABS Braking option, over-temperature safty cut-out, push-pull pause protection, high current / low loss Hyperfets, high frequency and powerfiltering operation, improved radio reception through lower noise, microprocessor controlled makes smooth throttle response with better acceleration and braking in cuves or striaght-aways.
To find out more about the SC300 Volcano including specs Check out FMA Directs Web site at www.fmadirect.com
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Dynamite Teflon RedSeal Ball Bearings
The Dynamte set includes 24 Ball Bearings, each one Teflon RedSeal to provide higher speeds, better handling, and less maintenance.
Friction has always been the problem in the ball bearing area, thats why I choose the Dynamite Ball Bearing set because of thier Teflon RedSeal for added protection in keeping dirt and moisture out, with reduced drag, and perminant luberication. I saw a dramatic improvement in speed and alot less friction with these ball bearings, this is a great upgrade from the nylon bearings.
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Duratrax Competition Shocks
Duratrax Competition Shocks at a very economical price and best value.
Theses shocks fit most 1/10 scale R/C cars and Trucks. And come in two sizes available in 3" Front and 4" Rear (I used 3" for front and back). Rebuildable, easy to assemble and fill. Silicone O-ring provides leak protection with solid screw on cap. Stylish gold anodized shocks compliment the blue Wild Dagger body especially at the track. I replaced the weaker springs that come with the shocks and used the origional stiffer stock springs that came with the Wild Dagger kit, this pevented suspension sagging. I also used 60weight oil to fill the shocks for the added stiffness on jumps. All four shocks are the short and front type.
Having problems fitting your shocks? Click here for help!
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FMA Direct Dual Ball Bearing Metal Gear Servo
The FMA Direct S350M all metal gear servo. Comes with standard self shiedled, all braided 24 gauge cable. The metal grear set has a steel pinion gears and brass bull gears to minimize gear wear. The output gear and shaft are also made of all brass with double ball bearing output. Mounting is by a four point shock mount lugs that are 1/8 thick. The cable connector is gold plated for maximum performance. The Torque for the S350M is 47 in-oz at 4.8V and 58 in-oz at 6V. Transmit time is 0.21 Sec. at 4.8V and 0.17 Sec at 6V.
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Pro-Line Race Bodies for Off-Road Trucks
2000 Ford F-350
Fits Traxxas T-Maxx (But I modified it to fit the Dagger!). Includes window masks, and large decal sheet. Paint not included.
Part #3096-00
$26.00
Find more Pro-Line body shells at http://www.prolineracing.com
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